Flywheel resurface

[Rogue_Wulff]

Thermal pellet replacement (~1/3 down) :http://mazdatrix.com/b4.htm

Pulsation dampner (and explanation why I suggest replacing): http://mazdatrix.com/c-pulsation.htm

Flywheel removal writeup (and semi-hot chick demonstrating): http://mazdatrix.com/faq/flywheelremoval.htm

[InGroundEffect]

She is wearing way to many clothes for me to watch that video.   

[Rogue_Wulff]

I said semi-hot. She's overdressed, and not that great looking. However, using tools and working an engine, especially a rotary, adds hotness that she doesn't actually posess.....

[rotorgo]

yeah, some one local is doing what I want to do. i have an 84 GSL-SE and an 87T-II. I have tried putting them in the same garage with barry white playing, let them watch AutoX events together, and even shined the SE up but they just wouldn't mate. I am glad to add another rotary nutt to our forum. If you have any questions about either car "Rogue" "inground" and a few more can help. I love the megasquirt  idea, but I have always thought a blow through turbo would be the way to go. All you need is the intake manni, and carb, and run the old ignition. No ECU no cry. does the engine still have mannis and sensors, just missing the harness and ecu?

[Rogue_Wulff]

Adam wants to build a blow-thru turbo, and I want to build a carbed N/A FD. The ultimate in reliability mods...... LOL.

[mattu008]

Yeah, looks like I got everything but the ECU, Harness and ignition.  I've got a hold of a set of LS1 coils which I'm hoping to use for the ignition, doing research it appears that I'd just need to get the wiring straightened out and set the megasquirt to run in "FD" mode as I've been told they use a four coil ignition system.

Thanks for the mazdatrix links, I'm gonna try and figure out all the gaskets I need to reassemble the top end and change out the front cover, basically get a shopping list together.  I've seen the video for taking off the flywheel before, I sourced it when I went out to Chouteau on a lead for one, after getting it off of the engine out there (by the way an N/A 13B S4 block is out there for $200 if you're interested) only to find it was missing a tooth from the starting motor gear so I passed, not worth the $50.

Gave some thought about the blowthrough but I think I want the control and tunability of the ECU.  I also need to go through the fuel system and make sure I got what I need on the car before I put the motor, but being new to rotaries, not sure what is on there now.  Its obviously aftermarket and appears to have a return line to the tank but not sure what pressures I could see out of it and if it would be enough for the TII.  I attached some pictures if you guys have any ideas, it was set up for a Nikki Carb that  I was told was done by Sterling.  I was thinking of just trying to find a gauge to hook up to it before the pressure regulator to see what pressures it'll reach.  Also added some pics of some of my progress, along with the TII block I'm working with.

[mattu008]

Additional pics..

[Rogue_Wulff]

Pump is nowhere near enough for EFI. EFI needs ~40 PSI, and that's likely a 7-8PSI pump. That pump is for carbed applications only. Same for the FPR.
A stock GSL-SE fuel pump could be used, as it's an external mounted EFI pump, however, you need to be be aware of the possibility of having the pump suck air during hard lefts when the tank is below ~1/2.
Another option for pump, is to add an internal pump to the existing pickup assembly. Fortunately, 84-85 used a removable pickup assembly.
Either option will work, but finding a GSL-SE tank would be best, as it was designed with a cup to surround the pickup, thereby preventing the fuel slosh to allow air at the pump.

Essentially, you will need to fully rebuild the fuel system by adding a higher PSI pump, and EFI rated hoses, but the supply/return hard lines should be plenty, as long as they are in decent shape. FPR is built-in to the fuel rail, so you're covered there.
A surge tank is often used in conjunction with an external pump on an EFI system.


BTW, if that really is a sterling carb, I just might be interested in it.

[mattu008]

Yeah, I figured I would be needing to do some modifications for the fuel line.  A GSL-SE tank may be best as I don't trust the current tank... I've had to replace the fuel filter a couple times now and only had about a couple thousand miles on it each time.  As far as the carb, not sure how to verify if it is a Sterling or not.  It does have mechanical secondaries and it appears the choke has been removed or disabled, looks far simplified from what it was intended to be.  Any good ideas on where to source a GSL-SE Tank?

Oh, on another note, I was able to inspect the flywheel I just got and it looks all good.  It was just dirt or grease in the pressure plate bolt hole.  It is a bit rusty, is there anything that I need to worry about with that.  I assume upon resurfacing the only part you're worried about should be taken care of.  Not wanting to take sandpaper or anything else like that to it in case I through off the balance.

[Rogue_Wulff]

Only SE tanks I know of, are under running SE's. However, I think they can be purchased new thru Mazdatrix or Black Dragon, but that's pricey. The only internal difference between the 12A and 13B (SE) fuel tanks, is the internal fuel baffle. This could be replicated fairly easily, and would also allow time to flush out the existing tank.
The fuel baffle is really only needed when the fuel level drops under ~1/2 tank, and "Spirited" driving conditions occur.
The SE does use a different pickup assembly, as it had 3/8" fuel line to the pump, but the rest of the lines are the same 5/16" supply and 1/4" return that the carbed 12A used. The 12A pickup is also 5/16".

I have seen several setups that added a fuel supply location to the underside of the tank, and that would certainly be a cheaper option than a new SE tank and pickup. Using a rear biased, centered location for a new supply tap would greatly reduce any chance of the pump sucking air, unless the fuel level is very low.

As for the carb, I'd like to see it. If it passes my inspection, I might even want to take it off your hands.

[Rogue_Wulff]

Ah, I see you added to your post while I was typing.....

The rust on the flywheel shouldn't be anything to worry about. Resufacing it will eliminate the rust where it counts. Even without resurfacing, the rust on the friction surface would be gone after 1 or 2 uses.

[mattu008]

Thanks, I'll have to  give some thought about the fuel tank.  Going to look under there and see how much room I have to work with and what I might want to do, I don't have much fabrication equipment if any...  For the carb, I'd like to get a fair price for it as soon as I know what it'd be worth so I might use the proceeds to fund the TII swap, also have a RB header if anyone is interested.  Don't know the mileage on it but it looks to be in good shape.

[Rogue_Wulff]

The header a single or dual outlet?
The carb sells "new" (actually rebuild, after mods) for around $300. Used, it depends on condition.
The carb is something I have debated for a while, and *may* be enough to keep me from swapping the carbed SE 6P 13B into my red car, for a while. The SE is planned for a TII swap, or a blow-thru build. I have a good portion of the stuff to do a blow-thru, including a 650DP Holley ready for boost prepping.....
Of course, I've also debated swapping a small block ford into the SE. Granny's speedshop even offers a "bolt-in" ford 8.8 that uses the stock SE brakes and wheels......

[mattu008]

A pic of the exhaust I pulled off.  Not sure if that second piece is stock our not.  I assumed so given the weight and wear but not sure.

[Rogue_Wulff]

That's the RB long primary system, often referred to as road race or streetport exhaust. Like all RB exhaust components, it's build very heavy. They use 2" OD .125 wall pipe. This system actually uses a stock 81-82 style muffler.
Looks like that's been under the car for quite some time, but would still last many years.